THERE are many hidden gems in Co. Fermanagh, but few come close to the allure of a certain lakeside lodge nestled on the shores of Lough Erne.

The Watermill Lodge is the vision, and ongoing labour of love, of French Chef Pascal Brissaud.

Originally from the South of France, Mr. Brissaud first experienced Lough Erne at four-years-old when fishing with his father.

The beauty of the location left a lasting impression, and following a career as an accomplished chef in his homeland, he moved to Fermanagh to realise his long-standing vision outside Lisnaskea. That was in 2010, and what he created is truly mesmerising.

The old-style exterior of The Watermill Lodge, complete with thatched roof and cut stone, seamlessly blends with the setting of Lough Erne.

Inside, a log fire roars, French music plays, and silver fish adorn the walls. It feels like home.

The cuisine, both French and Irish (Frirish) inspiration, completes the experience. Mr. Brissaud is a master of putting his own twist on local tastes.

It’s no surprise that the restaurant has garnered acclaim across the world. People come from all over, including the US, Canada Europe, to eat, fish and stay - so much so, 95 per cent of its business is repeat business.

Mr. Brissaud has certainly realised his vision. Overlooking the lake that he has an endearing appreciation for, the accomplished French chef spoke with pride at what he has created.

“I wanted to build something that seemed to always be part of the lough,” he explained.

“I didn’t want a building that was going to be an eyesore. I wanted it to seem like it has been here for 200 years.

“I wanted it to blend into nature, and I wanted to capture the spirit of Lough Erne. We have managed that, I am sure of it.”

Since 2010, The Watermill Lodge has gained much acclaim both locally and farther afield. Some years ago, a team of 30 staff were in situ, led under Mr. Brissaud’s expert guidance, garnering a reputation that transcends Northern Ireland.

However, like every hospitality business, the Covid-19 pandemic had a massive impact. The establishment was closed for 16 months, with the situation calling for a rethink.

Reopened Now recently reopened, Watermill Lodge now offers a more intimate dining experience. The restaurant has eight tables, with up to 30 diners, expertly catered to by a dedicated team of four, while 20 rooms are also available for guests.

Quality over quantity is Mr. Brissaud’s mentality, and he remains fiercely passionate about providing guests with the very best dining experience at Lough Erne.

“It is very important for me to respect the local way of eating,” he said. “We offer local cuisine with a French twist. It is challenging to get that balance, but I am here so long that I know what local people like.

“Watermill Lodge is timeless, and it has French style. I have a lot of customers, even from Enniskillen, that tell me that between the French music, atmosphere and the cooking, they don’t need to go to France. They can get the French experience right here!”

And there’s arguably no person better placed to deliver this ‘French experience’ than Mr. Brissaud himself.

Having started in catering at the age of 14, he quickly rose through the ranks to become a head chef at only 21.

In his accomplished career, he worked in high-profile restaurants in France, and in his often limited spare time, indulged in a lifelong love affair with fishing.

And while he fished on the many great lakes of France, the impact that local Lough Erne had on him as a young boy was never far away.

Describing it as a “love story with the lake”, Mr. Brissaud vowed to return one day, and when the circumstances were right in the year 2000, he decided “within a minute” to move to Fermanagh.

“I decided to leave France and come to Fermanagh, and I have no regrets,” he said.

“My only regret is that I wasn’t born here! Lough Erne is one of the best loughs in Europe, and I am happy to be able to promote it all over the world.

“It is amazing, and for me the lough is like the moving of a hand. I am happiest when I am here. I feel like I have always been part of the lough.”

Looking back, Mr. Brissaud, now 58, said he is proud of all he has achieved.

Indeed, building up a restaurant from scratch in a foreign land is no mean feat, and he credits both passion and the right people as being major driving forces of success.

“You need that passion for pleasing people,” he remarked. “You can test it in a place. People can tell if you care about what you are doing.”

But Mr. Brissaud is by no means resting on his laurels. Watermill Lodge is entering a new, more intimate chapter.

“I don’t have big plans,” he admitted. “My plan is to stay relatively small, and to be able to offer the best quality. My business is now on a smaller scale, but this allows it to be managed in the best way.

“I really want to look after people. At the end of the day, customer satisfaction is what matters the most.

“When I see my clients come back from a fishing day with sparkling eyes, it’s overwhelming. It is a feeling that is beyond any money or thanks.”

With this, Mr. Brissaud said he must also remain mindful of the multiple challenges facing the hospitality industry.

Indeed, the decision to scale back on staff was in response to staffing difficulties across the industry, while rising costs are another thing that hospitality owners must consider.

“Covid-19 was challenging, and it closed me for 16 months,” he said. “But what was the most challenging for me was to lose my team.

“They all moved on, and I can’t get them back, and in fact, a lot of them have left the industry altogether.

“Without doubt, Covid-19 changed the lives of people. People realised what life was about.

“For me, the only two Christmasses I have spent with people I love, since I started in catering, was during the pandemic. It makes you rethink things.

“I have a big passion, so I kept going, but many left the industry, as it was too challenging. This is the same for my colleagues in Ireland, France and all over Europe.

“Today, we are a team of four, but we are a close-knit, family team. Without my team I am nothing.”

Mr. Brissaud added: “Rising costs are also very challenging, but there is nothing you can do about it.

“We are mindful of passing these costs onto customers. Not passing on these costs is a challenge.”

Certainly, it’s been quite a journey for this French-turned-Fermanagh chef.

A lifelong passion for fine-dining and fishing, infused with a romantic vision and sprinkled with a dash of lakeland beauty, has positioned Watermill Lodge as one of Fermanagh’s best dining experiences.